The last thing I posted regarded finding the Quaker Meeting in town. Well, let me tell you a little something about directions in South Korea; they are practically non-existent and all in Korean. I went to Google Maps, typed in the address, and got directions to take the subway to a certain stop. From there, there was literally an arrow pointing from the subway stop to the location – through buildings and streets and alleys. No street names, no ‘take a left here’, no hint of detail. Though on Sunday I still attempted to take the subway to the correct stop to see if I could maybe, juuuuust maybe, find my way there. I had the Lord on my side after all. However, trying to find your way to an undisclosed location in a country where no one speaks your language and all the signs are in foreign characters is, in a word, difficult. I ended up wandering through some alleys where I am pretty sure no white people ever go because I got STARED at. One group of people actually smiled at me, though I think it was due in part to being so surprised. I tried to get some food in one alley, in this tiny hole in the wall place where an old, wrinkled Korean woman was stirring soup in big cast-iron pots. We gestured to each other for a little while before she pretty much told me whatever she was making would be too spicy for me and kept saying ‘kim-bop!!’ (Korean sushi) and pointing wildly around the corner. Needless to say, I did not find Quaker Meeting. Yet.
While I was eating my kim-bop around the corner from the old Korean woman and her spicy soup, I was reading a book called Seoul Survivor, which was written by an early thirty-something Canadian who had lived in Korea for many years. It’s been giving me some good insight into the Korean culture, and I felt like I was really getting into it – eating kim-bop, hearing Korean spoken all around me, and reading about the culture. Then I got to a part that said ‘Koreans find it odd when people eat at restaurants alone.’ Erhmm. Well! I was done with the kim-bop anyway so I best be on my way!
This brings me to a conundrum I have been having. As I was sitting eating alone in that restaurant I was feeling good about myself for being adventurous and exploring alone (in a very SAFE country, parental units!) I was all jazzed up about being an independent woman and then felt de-jazzed (unjazzed?) after reading that people in Korean generally do not dine alone, so I got up and went on my way. So, how much do I want to be myself and how much do I want to fit into Korean culture? My whole life I have been taught to be yourself! Do what you think is right! Be independent! Then I come to a country where that is not the case; how much do I change about myself and my habits to conform to a different society?
This is an especially tricky question when I spend most of my time here in an international school where we are teaching students with an American curriculum. The school sometimes feels like living in a weird American bubble in the midst of all things Korean. It is quite bizarre to teach Korean students with this curriculum because they just don’t get much of the references. I was teaching explanatory writing the other day, and the example the book used was ‘How to Make a Peanut Butter & Jelly Sandwich.’ None of the kids knew what that was. (It took me ½ an hour to find jelly in the store on Wednesday and all they had was strawberry. Koreans don’t eat much jelly.) Sometimes I find it hard to relate to the students because of that big gap in our cultural backgrounds.
Yet, this is what I am here to do – learn about a new culture/way of life that does not dominate the flippin’ world, like the American culture does. Most of the time I think it’s really quite wonderful and exciting; such as when I see straight men wearing pink shirts and sequined pants, or when men wear their partner’s purses on their shoulders, or when I sit down to eat a truly Korean meal, or when I wander through an outdoor market, or when I stop and think ‘I’m in SOUTH KOREA.’ There are other times though that I throw my hands up and think ‘God damnit, Korea!’; like the fact that the government requires everyone to buy special garbage bags in a scheme to make them money, or when I’m on the crowded bus for an hour round-trip commute each day, or when I stop to think how old-fashioned and patriarchal the society is, or when I have compostable food scraps I have to throw it away.
But you know what? Here’s to getting out of my comfort zone and growing.
Happy weekend!
Hi Katy,
ReplyDeleteIt's soooo exciting what you are doing! Thanks for sharing this with us. Is there a way to find a few Korean friends? What do you have to do to make that happen? Then you don't have to dine alone and you'd probably have lots more fun. I bet after another month you'll get into the swing of your teaching and exploring. It's just all so new right now. Please keep blogging.